Jim and Ardith in Russia, Finland and the Baltics: From Lithuania, but still more to tell about Tallinn

From Lithuania, but still more to tell about Tallinn

Friday, June 14

The history of Tallinn, like most European cities contains many times of fires and war destruction. Of especial horror was the Soviet bombing in March, 1944. about 300 planes dropped 3000 bombs, mainly on public buildings and housing. 5,100 buildings were flattened or rendered useless. Throughout these times, the people continued to rebuild their city. Much of what we see in Old Town Tallinn is reconstruction, but a good deal of “original” is still there. The blending is quite skillful and it is impossible for an untrained observer to know which is which. We spent a lot of time just poking around this marvelous city.

We had intended to focus on the Dom Church – the Lutheran Cathedral - but there were busloads of tourists waiting to get in, so we went to Holy Spirit Church.

This 15^th century church is especially noted for its woodcarving, especially the altarpiece..

There are similar sized paintings of nearly every flat surface. The subjects are both secular and sacred.

We enjoyed going up into the balcony giving a great view of the church and especially of the stained glass. The major windows are all “new”, but pieces of “old” were rescued and displayed.

The pulpit is where the first sermon was preached in the Estonian language, thanks to the Reformation.

Successful cities depend on good trash collection. Here the collectors go into alleys, special doors, etc., haul the cans out to the street, then replace them nicely. It is amazing how big trucks can get through tiny streets. The trucks are smaller than typical US trash trucks.

We looked at several places where ancient city walls and gates remain. At one of those gates, Jim went out beyond the gates to take pictures while Ardith remained within. While he was deciding on best shots, a Japanese woman approached him and asked if she could take a picture of him with the gate tower in the background. He said sure and she did so. Then she asked if she could have her friend take a picture or her with me. He gave her a little squeeze while her friend snapped away. She was all smiles.

One of the old walls is lined with a display of 13^th and 14^th tombstones that are largely intact.

We have been buying post cards in most cities for a co-worker of Ardith’s at the American Indian Museum and for our granddaughters. Jim has developed a good sense of price spread. We bought cards from a girl of 13 or 14 in a small street. Jim was intrigued with the purse where she kept her money. It brought back memories of the coin changer he wore on his belt when he collected for newspapers he delivered as a boy. He speculates that he is the only person to ask a vendor to have her money purse photographed.

One annoyance here is that in several places, people are very actively soliciting you to come into their place of business. Most are in costume. Some are more fun than others. We made it a point not to patronize those places.

Many places were quite appealing without a hawker.

We did a lot of window shopping, though.

In early afternoon, Ardith’s ankle had reached its limit and we went back to our apartment. Jim lasted about a half an hour, then went out. Yesterday, he had hoped to climb the tower in the town hall, but a sign said it was closed for a private party. He was going to try again. As he approached that place, he saw a girl in a very fancy dress with a big camera and decided that something was happening. When the two of us were returning from our morning walk, we saw a stretch limo inching its way (oh, they are metric here – would that be centimetering?) through tiny streets. It was now parked in front of the town hall.

The door was open and people in very dressy clothes were staring into it, waiting for the bride and groom to appear. There was a tour group waiting, but they gave up after 3 or 4 minutes. Jim had plenty of patience and watched and photographed several of the events. As usual, the photographer was bossing everybody around.

After many minor rituals (e.g., a very long kiss) were done, Jim heard singing from nearby.

He abandoned the wedding party to watch and record a choral group singing a song at the other end of the front of the hall. They did a good job, encouraged by an enthusiastic leader.

He turned back to the wedding in time to see a cage passed to the bride and groom. A guy gave them instructions and they pulled out a pair of doves, kissed the doves and released them.

Jim came back about a half hour later, but the closed for private party sign was still up. To his good fortune, though, he watched a boy in chain mail and sword come up to the front of the door and pose for pictures for his doting dad. Mom was watching, but had a neutral expression. Father and son were clearly enjoying the experience.